ANGEL LEON is to fish what Ferran Adria is to, well, most other things. One of the trio of Andalucia’s cookery wunderkinds (Dani Garcia and Kisko Garcia being the others), he has spent the last ten years getting to know his sea-food. And what a surprise you are in for. Not just content with knocking out cod and chips, at Aponiente you will have a fish supper you will never forget. Shrimp served in a rolled up prawn fritata, fried fish served as bread sticks (they are actually an unfashionable fish called acedias carefully stuffed with Iberican ham), this is ingenious.