IN easily one of Andalucia’s most charming villages, you must look out for Maricastana, where a local couple have turned this ancient townhouse into one of the most stylish dining retreats around. It oozes charm, and even sets out a ‘declaration of intentions’ promising to ‘conquer the stomach’, not through over-eating, but through opening the senses and taste buds. It certainly doesn’t come far off with its interesting mix of dishes, well sourced and carefully cooked, in particular with a heavy emphasis on vegetables. There is a great rice dish, plenty of vegetables and a few magical touches, all complimented by a perfectly good wine list. Sit out on the terrace on warm days, or cozy up by the fire in the winter, this is a sure fire winner.