AT Casa Padrino – or the Godfather’s House – little has changed for centuries. In the heart of the lovely old town of Alajar, this 16th century manor house is something of a living museum, its crooked old beams, undulating barro floors and hand-carved doors all left exactly as they were back then. At the back an old compound and patio full of free range chickens and pigs gives the true feel of the past. There are three dining rooms, each with their own charms, especially in winter when big roaring fires are lit. Downstairs is a huge cavernous bodega full of some dusty old bottles, which – if you have time and the owner agrees – you can sift through till you find what you are looking for. In the same family for decades, it puts on no airs and graces, and the food is simple, yet tasty.